Headwear

Hood

Kápě, kapicě, kapicze derives, just like čepice (cap), from the Medieval Latin word capa, cappa. It was also called kukla or kuklička, which originated from the Latin cucalla, and in written sources it is further referred to as capucium, chuchla, cucala, capye. The hood could be worn in various ways — normally on the shoulders, where it could be complemented by a hat or a helmet, or it could be placed on the head with the face opening turned up, worn like a cap. For post-Hussite Bohemia, we can trace three main types of hoods: with a tail, without a tail, and a tasseled hood, which was also popular in German lands.

Hood with a Tail

These hoods were popular especially before the Hussite Wars, as can be seen in the Gelnhausen Codex (1400–1408) or the Olomouc Bible (1417). Given that a longer tail is primarily seen on luxuriously dressed individuals, it may have represented the good standing of its owner. This would also correspond to the event recorded in the chronicle of Vavřinec of Březová, when the Taborites cut the long tails of hoods belonging to Prague craftsmen and burghers, which thus symbolized the intemperance and luxury they condemned. Likewise, in the Codex of Jena (1490–1510), a priest is depicted in a magnificent fur coat, with many rings and shoes with long pointed toes, wearing a hood with a long, massive tail.

Hood without a Tail

The simple hood without a tail was the most widespread type of hood in post-Hussite Bohemia. It could be worn under a helmet or together with a hat. One such „kuklu modrou, kterou míval do vojny“ (blue hood, which he used to take to war) was left behind by Zikmund Jirconis of Poříč in 1455. There are very many depictions of these hoods from both Czech and German sources.

Tasseled Hood

This type was popular in German lands, including Bohemia at that time. It could also be worn under a helmet, as shown in drawings and paintings by the famous painter Albrecht Dürer (1471–1528). At the neck, it could be fastened with buttons to achieve a more anatomical shape. Its tassels could also be decoratively cut, as can be seen, for example, in the portrait of the Kutná Hora mint master Hans Harsdorfer from 1484. It is worth noting that Albrecht Dürer and Hans Harsdorfer were friends.

Hat

Klobúk, klouček, koblúček, kobek, kobek, klouček, koláče. Besides denoting headwear, the term also referred to a helmet. The most common shape was one where the crown naturally followed the head and the brim was bent or rolled upward. Depictions of such a hat can be found, for example, in the Krumlov Anthology (1420) as well as 70 years later in the Codex of Jena (1490–1510), and archaeologically confirmed by a find from Ireland. The crown could also be flattened, conically shaped, or pointed. Likewise, the brim could be variously shaped: flat and round, like contemporary hats, rolled up as mentioned above, bent upward with one or more slits, or completely absent. Unlike hoods, it seems that hats were often lined with different fabric or fur.

An independent hatmakers' guild was established in Prague's New Town on 2 April 1446. From their statutes, one can discern that they produced hats made of beaver fur and felt. From the confirmation of the hatmakers' guild articles in the Old Town on 11 August 1489, one can learn that besides beaver hats, a master also had to be able to produce a hare-fur hat „obú stranú vlasitý“ (furry on both sides), a curly hat, and in addition to hats also cobbler's felt and a boot, presumably felted in the manner of valenki.

Hat with a Rounded Crown and Rolled Brim

Hat with an Upturned Brim without Slits

Most of these hats have flat crowns in the iconography, though exceptions can be found, such as the one in the Codex of Jena, see image below.

Hat with an Upturned Brim with Slits

It is worth noting that even when a hat has only one slit, this slit is never in the centre of the forehead, but rather to the side of the head.

Other Types of Hats

Berets

One of the most common types of headwear was the beret, which constituted approximately a quarter of all headwear and is probably hidden under the period name čepice (cap).

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